Lawn Care Recommendations

A premium lawn needs organic compost and a lot of water at the very beginning to get it established. Once established (after 6 months) the water is slowly tapered off to minimal levels. It is very important to keep the grass 3 inches or higher and never mow the lawn less than 3 inches high.

1. Soil: Healthy soil contains organisms that fight lawn and landscape pests. The foundation for plant health is deep roots and efficient nutrient uptake. A healthy organic rich soil will support deep root development. Conversely, chemicals destroy native soil organisms and remove natural insect predators that combat common lawn diseases and weed proliferation. Start with testing your soil to learn of its physical properties and characteristics. The soil test will also identify biological or nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. If the soil is sandy, simply put 2 inches of good soil on top of it. If the soil is clay, put 40 pounds of granular Gypsum per 1,000 square feet and then put 2 inches of good soil on top of the Gypsum (Gypsum treatment should be done for 3 years).

2. Watering: Overwatering promotes shallow roots, fungus diseases, mosquitos, and nutrient run-off. Do not start watering when your irrigation system is turned on in the spring. Wait until the soil dries down to 4 “or so. Do not let your irrigation company set the irrigation clock. They are water delivery experts, not lawn experts. Encourage deep roots by watering deeply and infrequently. In temperate climates, water 2 times per week in the hottest weather period for at least one hour per zone. Water less, or not at all, during cool periods. Note: Irrigation systems should be activated only during pre-dawn or post-dusk periods. NEVER water during daylight hours. Excessive evaporation and fungus development will occur. Deep watering usually equals 20 minutes on sunny lawns and 15 minutes on shady lawns. New Lawns: During the first month for a newly seeded lawn, water every morning at the start of the day. In hotter areas or weather periods, water twice a day (or more) depending on the weather and the time of the year. Seeds must be kept moist during germination. After about a month, once the seed has germinated, water every other day for 1 week, then two days per week, then once a week. Be attentive to the lawn for 6 months (baby it). If it needs water, water it! In the fall, once it’s established (after a month) there’s no need to water it once temperatures get very cold. By the following year, it should need far less water, if at all, especially in areas that have steady rainfall.

3. Mowing

• Mow high: 3 ½ - 4 “high. While 3 1/2 inches is OK, at 4 inches your lawn will be 99.8% weed free since sunlight has a hard time reaching the weed seeds to germinate them. (At 31/2"-4" = 15% more weeds.) Longer leaf blades collect more sun, provide more energy to roots, shade out weeds, and prevent rapid moisture loss.

• Mow more often: Remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time. Weekapaug Foundation for Conservation | PO Box 3067 Westerly, Rhode Island 02891

• Mow sharp: Dull mower blades tear grass which invites fungus infections. d. Leaf mulching: Use a mulching mower and leave grass clippings in place (don’t rake or blow away). Grass clippings will break down and provide nutrients to the lawn.

4. Aeration: Aerate annually in the fall. Aerate more often in high traffic areas. Aeration reduces compaction and encourages better drainage, increases oxygen to the soil (yes, roots need to breathe), and increases nutrient absorption.

5. Feeding: Feed the soil, not the plants. Leave grass clippings. They return valuable nutrients to the soil. Feed lawns in the fall only. Spring fertilization encourages fast, weak growth, invigorates weeds and invites disease problems in hot weather. Use compost, compost tea, or slow-release organic fertilizer. They stimulate soil health and are also less likely to mix with rainwater run-off, reducing the risk for watershed pollution, or eutrophication. In the fall, mow fallen leaves into a fine leave mulch and lightly spread over the lawn. The remainder of the leaves should be raked into shrub and tree areas as mulch – super low-cost natural fertilizer.

6. Overseeding: Cut short, rake, and over seed in early fall when grass seed germinates best and weed seeds are dormant. Grass will then out-compete weeds in the spring with a more robust root structure gained during the fall. Do not cut the lawn short or rake away grass clippings in the spring as it will promote opportunities for weeds. As part of a fall over seeding, spread the seed first and then put down organic compost. Use a high-quality organic compost. Use ¾ cubic yards of compost per 1,000 square feet (only 1/8 to 1/4 inch high). Not more than ¼ inch since over-fertilization encourages the grass to grow faster and the goal here is slow growth. Manure isn’t a complete form of nourishment for the soil and fertilizer only provides a quick boost. Organic compost is best since it provides a slow release of nutrients and will optimally nourish the soil resulting in a richer, more beautiful lawn.

7. Diversity: Clover fixes nitrogen (natural fertilizer) and fills gaps in lawns. Dandelions are excellent aerators and are soon overwhelmed by the healthy, taller turf they pioneer.

8. Participation: A healthy, pest-resistant lawn, like the human body, is a process. With consistent inputs of intelligence, rather than commercial products, a balanced ecosystem that is resilient and resistant to environmental stresses will be generated and sustained.

9. Having Faith: Before resorting to sprays, determine and fix the cause and avoid continual treatment of symptoms. If spraying must occur, use naturally derived substances. In any case, they will probably kill beneficial insects as well as your target pest. Organic sprays should be applied early or late in the day to avoid contact with pollinators. Note: The use of tick and mosquito sprays is toxic to humans, pets, and wildlife. They kill beneficial insects and pollute water and the soil. They create a false sense of security as they cannot possibly kill all the ticks in a yard, hence the ticks are able to return. Even the organic spray is harmful to beneficial insects and pollinators. Instead, protect oneself and children with frequently applied personal repellents, as one would with sunscreen, in concert with regular body checks.